A few minutes into a winter walk last week, wind chills below zero and the late afternoon sun doing its best to warm the air, I happened upon three owls, screechers I think, in a grove of pines.  I startled them, and they me, my heart’s rhythms increased by their de-perching and re-perching as I continued along the path.  Stopping, I was able to look into the yellow eyes of one that sat twenty feet off the trail on a barren branch. 

Today my place of citizenship swore in a new president.  This morning I received well wishes and congratulations via emails from Ethiopia and Honduras and a phone call from Benin City in Nigeria.  A moment in the history of the United States of America, and the world, that many feel is like nothing they’ve experienced before, and for many others, a moment that lived only in impossible dreams.

I have led a fortunate life.  One of those fortunes has been the opportunity to travel beyond the limits of my hometown, McSherrystown, in the Keystone State.  Back in 2005, Ghana was a ten day moment of my time here on Earth.  And for several hours touring the slave castles there, I was convinced that humanity’s inhumanity inflicted upon itself had wounds deeper than could be healed, or at least, the scars would be reminders of the pain we all, hopefully, share.

I am able to step back and recognize the magnitude of what took place in Washington, D.C. six hours ago.  I can believe in the righteousness of it. 

The Wildcat Creek flows icy cold, the banks of the central Indiana waterway snow covered.  A few deer gather beyond the opposite bed. 

 

white breasted nuthatch

picking a sunflower seed

from the metallic feeder

do you feel the resonance

of today’s transpiring

 

A campesino walks to parque central in Manto, Olancho.  His brow is dirty and sweaty.  He wears rubber boots and has a machete hanging from his britches held up by a piece of rope.  Corn grown in his milpa does not compete in the CAFTA market.

A Somali man’s dreams end in the knowledge that a refugee’s life is his current best option.  It’s that or risk of a bullet in the brain for triviality or lack of allegiance to thuggery.  A product of political fallout orchestrated far from his native land.

 

if greatness is not innate

but attained through life’s

work and perhaps circumstance

then why do we not find

greatness in our brothers and

sisters who wake each morning

and work against all odds to

overcome their circumstance

hoping only to survive another

day and see the familiar smiles

of the people they love

 

Forgive me for not believing the poor of our world will lead better lives after today.  We are told it’s time to roll up our sleeves and get to work.  Some of us have been doing that already. 

When we hear our new president defend the way of life of the privileged miniscule, we cannot look out from liberty’s perch and see the beacon of justice.  We will wake up tomorrow, no different than yesterday, ready to uphold accountability.

We arrived in Nigeria early in the morning after an all-night flight from
Ethiopia.  The international airport in Lagos is notorious for being one of
the most difficult airports to navigate after arrival.  Stories of having to
pay-off customs officials, harassment while waiting for your luggage from
people trying to scam you, baggage claim checks that require arguing and
more money are quite common.  Fortunately for us, we had none of the sort. 
Our papers were in order, we exercised patience, and we kept to ourselves
while waiting.  We transitioned smoothly, even managing to get a few of the
guards and other officials to smile a little. 

Joe, our counterpart here in Nigeria, quickly met us after exiting the
building.  We hailed a taxi and hurried to catch the local plane to Benin
City
.  In less than a half hour from landing we were lining up to get on the
propeller plane for the 1 hour flight to Benin.

The ride was smooth, the day a bit overcast.  Tired and red-eyed with a
doughnut and a box of juice in the belly, we landed in Benin.  We gathered
our bags and made way to a local café for a breakfast of okro soup and
pounded yam for me and fried chicken for my wife, hardly what we wanted to
eat. 

Anyway…

Before long we were in another taxi for the hour and a half drive to Asaba,
the capital of Delta State, the site of our project in Nigeria, and our home
while working here.

               *************************

We have been in Asaba for three weeks.  A few things we have observed here:

The people here share the faces of America’s Africans.  West Africa is just
one of the many roots of America.

The people are so darn friendly.  I know it may seem that I say everyone is
friendly, but these folks are very, very friendly.  They are warm,
welcoming, accommodating and say “sorry” far more than they should or need
to. 

A statue in the town depicts African warriors slaying two white men, British
colonialists.  It’s a gruesome sight.  Perhaps I am the one that should be
saying “sorry.”

Asaba sits on the west banks of the Niger River, one of the world’s great
rivers.  We ate lunch at a hotel by the river.  I couldn’t help but think of
how it may have looked before colonization.  Then two-men paddling a dugout
canoe came down river.  Could it have looked much different?

Mr. Bigg’s is the Nigerian equivalent of MacDonald’s.  Not a fan of
MacDonald’s, Mr. Bigg’s is ok though.  It has meat pies that are the perfect
snack to fill the void.

Guiness is brewed in Nigeria.  That’s right, Nigerians love stout!!  I am
most happy that Guinness is here.  It tastes like Guiness in a bottle
because it is Guiness in a bottle.  They’ve just put out Guiness Extra
Smooth, which isn’t too far off from Guiness on tap.  I am beer-satisfied
here.

It is hot in Asaba.  It feels like Hanover during the dog days of July or
August.  Humidity is high and the sun is intense.

The landscape is eastern Carolinas. It is flat, sandy and the dirt is red. 

                                   ********************
A few more things to share:  Nigeria is Africa’s most populous country.  It
is also it’s most diverse with more than 200 ethnic groups.  It is one of
America’s leading suppliers of oil.  It is a center of African literature. 
The people are very aware of global affairs and current events. It is
considered an economic powerhouse for Africa

I think we are going to learn a lot about this fascinating nation over the
next couple of months.

(written 6 November 2005)

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